K20 Powered 2007 Honda Fit Info

To reposition the ABS modulator securely, modify the stock brackets. It only needs to go an inch towards the headlight.

Engine Mounting
This is probably one of the hairiest engine shoehorn swaps we've done. Although the drive configuration is similar, the stock L15 Fit engine is narrow, and so the engine bay is narrow, even though it has plenty of height. The K20 and trans, on the other hand, is pretty wide. To make the fit, a number of things need to be moved around and the left-side frame rail needs a circular hole cut into it. Other than that, the HASport kit uses the stock mounts resourcefully, with new brackets. In the future, replacement mounts will be offered for less engine movement or even getting racy with the stock engine.

The first thing to do is move the brake lines along the passenger side and back of the engine bay. They will need to come out of the white locator clips and be gently bent by hand to hug the firewall and move along the wheel well above the frame rail. This, in conjunction with removing the hard A/C lines, opens up the right side of the engine bay completely.

While you're there, do the same type of operation to the ABS modulator. It needs to be much closer to the headlight to make room for the idler pulley of the K-series and a HASport bracket. It will take modifying the stock hold-down brackets to reposition the modulator securely.

Over on the left or driver's side, the frame rail needs to be notched. Center the 2.5-inch hole at 10.5 inches in, as shown. Only cut as high as the stock mount. A little bit of metal will need to be cut from the stock mount as well.

Moving to the driver side of the engine bay, clearance needs to be made on the chassis frame rail for the transmission case. Measure 10.5 inches back from the bulkhead and cut a notch 2.5 inches in diameter. A hole-saw is recommended. Double-check the notch by lowering the car on top of the engine and checking the clearance. The notch should only be about 0.25 to 0.375 inches deep. Make sure to reinforce the frame rail after removing the material.

Double-check the notching again, this time with the mount in place. This will give you an idea of how much material to remove from one edge of the notch for clearance. Under acceleration, the engine will move forward and up an inch or more. Make sure there is room for that, because when aluminum from the transmission case comes into contact with the steel of the frame rail, steel wins.

The last place to make some room is out front. The radiator core support needs to be trimmed just a bit to clear the intake manifold. Again, lowering the car to the engine will show the amount to remove. Allow at least an inch of clearance, because the stock mounts let the engine move under hard acceleration.

After the frame is cut, be sure to reinforce it with steel at least as thick as the rail. Here's the rail before we painted it to seal it up.

Now the engine bay of your squeaky-new Fit has been hacked into a work of modern industrial art, there's another problem. The only intake manifold that works with this swap is from the 2002 to 2006 RSX Type-S, EP3 Si or JDM Civic or Integra Type-R. They have the large flat front and the letters RBB or RBC cast into them. The longer Euro R, TSX or 2006-up Si manifolds stick out farther and will hit the radiator. The RBB and RBC manifolds will interfere with the alternators from the Accord, TSX and 2006 to 2007 Civic Si. An alternator from a 2002 to 2005 EP3 Si, any RSX or CR-V can be substituted. In addition, on some heads (mostly K24), you will need to plumb the thermostat bypass passage in the head, just to the side of the number one intake runner, back into the coolant system. HASport makes an adaptor plate for this. Don't just block it off, as this is a coolant passage.

Now clean up the K-series engine and take off all the accessories. If you have an engine with power steering, you'll need to replace it with an idler pulley and bracket from an EP3 Si, since the Fit has EPS. To retain the A/C, use the compressor from the EP3 or RSX, because it has a single wire control for the clutch like the Fit. Most K24s have a three-wire setup, not compatible with the Fit. You'll also need to redo the suction and receiver hoses.

Accessory belt size varies, depending on several factors. For K24s and the K20A3, you can use the EP3 (2002 to 2005 Civic Si) belt. On a K20A2, Z1, Z3 or any of the K20A Type-R engines, the crank pulley is smaller, so a shorter belt than the EP3 is required. No A/C? Start with a belt about 1.5 inches smaller than an EP3 and go from there.

Getting the K-series up on a moving platform like the one here will help a great deal. It's now time to check clearance on both sides by positioning the engine and lowering the car onto it. The intake manifold may not clear yet, but it won't interfere enough for this check. And that step is next.

If the engine harness is not on, install it. Install the half-shaft from an EP3 Si or RSX, which have 6MN, S5T30 or SNG30 stamped on them. These are the only Honda axles with the proper length and mounting flange pattern. Bolt the HASport right-hand engine bracket to the block using two of the stock bolts and one of the HASport-supplied bolts. With the engine and transmission on the support stand, lower the car over it. Keep a close watch on the VTEC solenoid on the rear of the engine, the clutch actuator fork, and the slave cylinder on the front of the transmission. You may need to twist the engine while lowering the car to avoid contact. This is a two-man job.

Once the car has been lowered and the engine is within a few inches of where the mounts are, install the left-hand transmission bracket using the HASport hardware. Then place a spacer under the bracket on the outside rear mount hole, so the bracket mounts flush. Leave the bolts finger-tight at this time. Continue to lower the car until you can bolt the transmission bracket to the mount. Use the stock bolt and HASport-supplied nylon lock nut.

The Fit's left-hand upper engine mount will need to be modified for clearance. Grind down the small nub on the top, near the upright stud. Notch the mount on the left inside edge to clear the engine-mounted HASport bracket. Put a couple bolts in the right-hand mount (passenger side) and check for clearance (0.25 inches).

There are no real set measurements for this, since it's easier to do with the engine in place. Be sure to mark off enough space on the driver's side for the throttle body. Only about half an inch is needed to come off the core support, which was removed with a die-grinder. Note: the only intake that will work for the swap is the 2002-2006 RSX-S, EP3 Si or JDM ITR/CTR (RBB or RBC). Some heads may require a HASport adaptor to use this manifold (part # K-INAD).

Leaving those bolts loose, attach the HASport top bracket with the supplied two bolts. If the hole on the mount end doesn't match up, try moving the engine around until it does. Torque the two HASport brackets to spec and finger-tighten the factory nut at the top of the Fit's right-side mount. Finger-tighten all three factory mount bolts. If nothing looks bound up, torque the top nut on the Fit mount to spec and then do the same for the three bolts around its base. Go to the right side and torque all those fasteners as specified in the HASport directions.

Drivetrain Hook-Up & Engine Accessories
Attaching the two side mounts will hold the engine for now. The swap needs custom-length driveshafts. HASport and the Driveshaft Shop plan to have these available. Install the driveshafts and then attach the lower subframe. After that, the lower control arms can be bolted to the knuckles.

Bolt the steering rack and gearbox back to the subframe. Finger-tighten the Fit's rear mount to the HASport bracket, using the stock rear mount bolt and HASport-provided nylon lock nut. Install the bracket and mount into the subframe together as a unit. You may need to lift the front of the engine to make room for both parts to be installed and line up properly. Install the rear mount using the factory hardware. Don't tighten yet.

Like most K-series swaps, this will need custom axles. The Fit axles are just two pieces and not compatible at all. The only intermediate shaft that will work is from an EP3 Si or RSX (part # 6MN, S5T30 or SNG30 stamped on the part). Install the intermediate shaft now.

Next, bolt the HASport rear bracket to the engine and transmission. The front hole will use the stock bolt you removed earlier from the transmission. The other two holes will use the HASport-provided hardware. Once all three bolts are in, torque the mount and bracket to HASport installation manual specs.

The Fit's radiator fans will no longer work, but the car needs at least one 12-inch electric pusher fan (two, if you keep A/C) on the front of the radiator. Connect it to the stock harness, so the K-Pro can control it. A lower GSR radiator hose, properly cut, will connect both the top and the bottom of the Fit's radiator.

Attach the alternator, connecting it to the alternator/starter-specific harness. Bolt on the EP3 idler pulley and bracket and, whether or not you're using A/C, install it along with the correct belt and new lines.

Bolt the HASport billet engine bracket tightly to the right side of the block. On the transmission, securely bolt the HASport transmission bracket in place. If you haven't already, take all accessories (A/C, alternator, PS and all other brackets) off the block.

If you plan to keep the e-throttle (like the HASport Fit), install the HASport adaptor plate and the throttle body (the TSX unit is the largest at 2.44 inches). Most won't be doing this, so the Fit must be converted to drive-by-cable. The pedal assembly will need to get swapped with something from another Honda or custom-fabricated. It will also take some experimentation to find the right length of throttle cable.

Because HASport had a 2006 Si at its disposal, it used the car's K20Z3 engine and transmission. If, by some enormous amount of luck, you can find one of these gearboxes, you can use the Fit's shifter assembly with shortened 2003-up Accord shifter cables. For the rest of us, only a tranny from an EP3 Si or any RSX will work. For these gearboxes, you also need the original shifter cables and shifter box from the chassis. TSX, Accord and other gearboxes have different casings and the HASport mounts won't line up.

The Fit's shifter box won't work because the way it operates the cables is the reverse of the EP3 Si or any RSX gearbox. That's why you'll need the cables and shifter box that match your tranny. The shifter box will also need to be modified. The center tunnel has a big bump that will need working around. But once installed, simply pass the cables through the floor in the stock location.

This is the right-side stock mount already notched to clear the new HASport brackets. Put it in place with the bolts finger-tight. The transmission side should have its mount notched from the frame cutting and be installed as well.

Remove this bolt that holds the tranny to the block on the lower right side of the engine. Keep track of it, you'll need it soon.

Lower the car onto the engine and bolt up the transmission side first. Leave it all finger-tight and move to the other side.